Abuna Yemata Guh

by Daniel

Abuna Yemata is an old and fascinating rock-hewn church hidden in a spectacular rock landscape in the Gheralta Mountains near Hawzien in Tigray Region.
When I arrived at Hawzien one of the local guides picked me up and brought me to Habesha Hotel, which is a new and spotlessly clean hotel near Hawzien's Piassa and the banks. 150 Birr for a room with shared bathroom.
The guide was very nice but as usual wanted to sell me a lot of stuff - private transfer, guide, a rope for climbing to the church, etc. which summed up to around 800 Birr. After he realized that I would not get his services he gave me the real valuable information that I needed. So basically this is how you can do it:
Get a bajaj/tuktuk to the next village of Megab (15 Birr). The bajaj is not allowed to take you further. From there walk along the main road for about half an hour until you see a sign that reads Abuna Yemata, also in English letters. Follow the path on the left side of the road that will take you along some farmhouses until you reach a small and probably dry stream. Take a stick with you. I encountered some watchdogs on the way and they were not pleased with my presence. From there you start climbing uphill on a small and at times rarely visible path. You will certainly meet people along the way who will point you the way. After some climbing you will reach the "ticket office". A priest or one of his helpers will probably sit there and this is where you pay the entrance fee of 150 Birr. Once you get there you basically made it.
Well, if you think you made it - now comes the hardest part. To get to the church you will have to climb a steep wall, cross some more rocks and then balance on a small rock ledge to get to a small room from where an iron door leads you into the church. The priest will open it for you.
The inside of the church is amazing. It is hewn into the rock and decorated with medieval religious paintings. The priest can also show you some of the ancient books that they store in the church.
You are allowed to take pictures but don't use flash. You will damage theses paintings and the priest might get upset.
To get back to Hawzien you have to climb down the mountain, get to the road, walk back to Megab and catch a bajaj.
In my case I encountered an Italian Doctor, Vincenzo, who works for an Italian aid agency. He took me back to the hotel.