By Daniel
„Choose your boat
wisely, some do capsize“ – that is what the Lonely Planet says about travelling
by cargo boat along the east coast of Madagascar. But what do you do if there
is no other choice?
There are
basically two options to reach Antalaha from Maroantsetra: by foot or by boat.
If you walk, it is a three to four day hike that can be arranged with one of
the local guides from the National Park. If you want to take all of your
belongings you there is the possibility of hiring porters as well and it all
adds up. If you don’t mind carrying everything on your own it is possible to do
this trek on your own. Just be aware that you will carry everything through
scorching sun at around 35°C and/or through torrential rainstorms (it is the
wettest and most stormy region of Madagascar), yet it is possible.
If you take a
boat, you can either rent a private one for around 7 Million Ariary or wait for
a cargo boat (30.000 – 40.000 Ar p.P.). They are quite frequent but have no
fixed schedule. The boats arrive, unload, fill up with cargo and leave when
they are full. Be prepared to wait for up to a week. The boats to Antalaha do
not leave at the regular port, but at Port Ankikabe on the eastern side of
Maroantsetra. It is best to go there every day and check for a boat yourself.
When we saw that
a boat had arrived, we prepared everything but were told that it would leave in
another three days. The boat looked old but trustworthy and we decided to give
it a try. So we waited in Maroantsetra (check out Coco Beach for decent
internet and Florida Snack, Ravi Nala, or Avia Mona for inexpensive quality
local food).
On the day of our
departure we went to the port at 4.30 in the morning and the boat was clearly
overburdened with cargo and people. It was so packed, that what seemed
trustworthy before turned into a game of Russian roulette. However, by then, it
was too late. We found a place on the deck and the „Stephanot“ navigated slowly
out of the sleepy river port.
The journey is
scenic yet strenuous. There is no shade (seriously, bring an umbrella) nor
shelter. There is no seat nor bed. No drinking water nor any opportunity to get
some. And the journey takes between 24 to 30 hours. Be prepared!
Although the sea
was quite calm you will feel the waves. This is not for the fainthearted. At
one point there was a problem with the motor. The overloaded boat drifted into
a leeward position and tilted so heavily from one side to the other that any
serious gust of wind would have caused it to capsize. Eventually the crew
managed to get the motor running and we steamed on through burning sunshine
only once interrupted by a short rainshower.
Around noon the
seamen dished up some rice and beans that they had cooked on an open fire in
the back of the boat. We had to climb there balancing on the reling holding
onto motorcycle exhausts, bike handles or grabbing the hand or foot of a fellow
passenger. Once having entered the ship’s cabin it felt like stepping into a
crack joint. People lying on narrow bunk beds fast asleep and an unbearable air
of diesel gases and again clove. Still, the meal cheered everyone up and
conversations became livelier until the sun slowly began to set casting the sky
into an intense array of reds.
The night was
very uncomfortable, since you are responsible to find a place to sleep
somewhere. And that can be tricky on
huge bags of clove (which at first smells nice but after a while you might
prefer your armpits to that nauseous and penetrating smell) because you choose
between the possibility of falling into the sea at night or sleeping near the
front where cockroaches hush between the algae-stained ropes of the anchor. Once
we managed to find some sleep we were woken up by the sound and eerie feeling
of a woman vomiting on our feet. Yummy…
When we eventually
reached Antalaha the next morning we were tired but relieved. Despite the
hardships this is a story that you will tell your grandchildren over and over
again when you alzheimer away at an old age…
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